Last Day in St Pete Beach

This week, we have usually enjoyed breakfast in our room -- fruit, cereal, rolls. Today we went out to The Hurricane, where we ate outside, only a few feet from the gulf. After our meal, we revisited the area near the Skyway Bridge, hoping to see a few more dolphins and enjoy the morning sunshine. The dolphins didn't appear, but the sun was just warm enough on this late winter morning.

We spent the afternoon at the beach and in the pool. Gulf waters are fresh but warmer than the Atlantic. The pool was just the right temperature, and we regretfully got out of the pool for the last time and zeroed out our towel balance.

We listened to the music of Sam Stone, sipping on drinks in the shade of  Salty's, the pool bar. We had an early dinner at Crabby Bill's (our third try). No wait this time. The meal (grouper for me, mahi mahi for Bob) was only mediocre, but Bob got the desire to eat there out of his system!

Time to pack. Au revoir, St Pete Beach! We've had a great time.

Moonset

This is our last day in St. Pete Beach. Our flight tomorrow is shortly after 8 so this wonderful holiday will soon be over.

Bob saw a beautiful setting moon Thursday morning, and I was a little sorry that he hadn't wakened me. Today, we were both on alert and transfixed, as the almost full moon slipped into the dark Gulf.

Tarpon Springs

Earlier in the week, Bob vetoed my proposal to visit Tarpon Springs, about 40 miles north of St. Pete Beach -- too much traffic, too many stoplights. I had been doing a soft sell job during the week (original Greek community, sponge fishing), leaving out my real reason for wanting to visit. I had read that St. Nicholas Cathedral is modeled on Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, now a museum, originally a cathedral and a mosque between 1453 until secularized by Turkey in 1931. The icons and mosaics in Hagia Sophia are beautiful, and the space itself is a cool respite from the heat of Istanbul.

By this morning, Bob was eager to do something different so the Tarpon Springs proposal was acceptable. The ride was not, however, very pleasant. Fortunately, my fear of being delayed by this weekend's Transitions Golf Tournament was not realized. We arrived in Tarpon Springs at about 11, and were almost immediately accosted near the "sponge docks" by a sales representative for a sponge diving exhibition. I didn't then know that Tarpon Springs is the "sponge capital of the world". The boat ride would not take more than an hour so it seemed like a good way to learn something about sponge diving and the history of this Greek enclave in central Florida.

Turns out commercial diving is done at least 10 miles offshore. Our exhibition was the traditional method of sponge diving. The diver wears ancient looking equipment weighing 172 pounds, and the dive is in shallow water very close to shore. The diver, Travis Jewel, was very handsome, a commercial diver when he is not working this tourist gig. He and the crew all looked stereotypically Greek, not a bad thing. "Just call me George", the narrator, was very knowledgeable about the area and the history of sponge diving. Very articulate too, using a conversational and friendly tone, without the bored, strident voice that is so often characteristic of the scripted speech for tourists.

The diver jumped into the water with all his gear and promptly retrieved a sponge that was passed around to the passengers. It was slippery to the feel, and I was surprised to learn that there are five grades of natural sponge. When we got off the boat, Bob bought a "wool" sponge (a pricey $12) to use on his car.

We had lunch at Mama's, splitting a "combination plate" that included my favorite moussaka and Greek salad. I confess that I liked the $3 margaritas best, so much that I had two of them. On to St. Nicholas Cathedral. Workers were working on dome restoration and I was disappointed in the exterior yellow brick structure. The interior didn't remind me of Hagia Sophia either, but it was a house of prayer and I did appreciate the serenity of the interior space.

The stained glass windows are lovely. I love Eastern icons, and was very happy to see  a replica of my favorite Lady of Czestochowa. I said a prayer for all my Polish friends, especially Judy and her husband, Jim, who gave me my own Black Madonna icon a number of years ago. The mosaics reminded me of some of the churches in Rome, especially Santa Maria Maggiore. I missed the presence of a gift shop: I know they are often too much in evidence but I would have liked to bring home an icon of St. Nicholas.

Our ride home was uneventful and we were ahead of rush hour traffic.

Worldwide Random Act of Kindness Day

We decided to try Crabby Bill's once again, but this time the wait was one hour and fifteen minutes, so we did not stay. Instead, we stopped at the The Wharf for dinner. We wanted to sit outside, so there we were, facing the water sitting on somewhat uncomfortable high stools.

We had been in our seats only 10 minutes or so, when a woman on her way out the door with her male companion told me it was "Worldwide Random Act of Kindness Day". She handed me a $20 bill, saying she knew it wouldn't pay for our meal but would at least cover our drinks! I hardly had the timed  to utter a "thank-you" and she was gone.

We enjoyed our shared meal of baked salmon on a real high. Bob suggested that we pay the RAK forward by giving the money to our very pleasant and busy server, in addition to our usual tip, of course. We did exactly that as we walked out of the restaurant. Hugs all round. Everyone felt great!

Thank you, RAK Lady! You gave us a memorable experience.

St. Petersburg Pier and Gulfport

Our dinner conversation yesterday included activities in Gulfport, so we headed there morning. However, Bob's idea of where it is led us to St. Petersburg's Vinoy Park, where we hauled ourselves to a park bench to look at the map and watch the water.

The grey squirrels are about half the size of our jumbo Goodrich Avenue creatures, and the park was full of them. Dolphins soon appeared by the sea wall, and we soon saw three or four of them, at least one of which seemed to be putting on a show for us. Another thrill for us -- we watched them fish for 20 minutes or so. Fish, by the way, seem plentiful, a good thing if you're a dolphin.

We parked on the St. Petersburg Pier, a working fishing pier leading to a rather unattractive structure at the end of it. The pier building is vaguely geometric, not nearly as attractive as the original building. I was feeling a little peaked by the time we looked around a little, so we plunked ourselves down for a shared lunch of coconut shrimp at ... Cha Cha Coconuts.

After lunch the GPS guided us to Gulfport, our original destination. We must have missed the better venues, because we ended up in the neighborhood of the Casino, in a less than attractive part of town. By then we'd had enough and we set off for home. Ended the afternoon with a walk on the beach and a swim in the pool.

Tierra Verde Sunset

We spent the late afternoon and evening with Wayne and Barb, the inlaws of my friend, John S. They're fellow Canadians who are also longtime residents of this area. We visited them at their beautiful home on Tierra Verde, and were treated to a wonderful tour of the island in Wayne's 21-foot SeaDoo. The famous Don Cesar resort looks Mediterranean from the water:

We pulled into Billy's, location for the John Candy movie Summer Rental (a tacky movie, but John Candy is one of my favories). Wayne shut down the engine and we waited for manatees to show their shy faces, but no luck today. No matter: there were plenty of dolphins swimming by in front of Wayne and Barb's, and I saw a lot of beautiful birds on the boat ride.

Wayne grilled a delicious meal (burgers, hot dogs, brats) and I helped Barb prepare the buns, chips, salad, condiments. No one noticed that I had to cut off the burned edges of the broiled buns! The meal was perfect, with congenial conversation and good wine.
The sunset created a virtual transport to Santa Maria della Salute in Venice!

Skyway Bridge and Anna Maria Island

On Tuesday we crossed the beautiful SkyWay Bridge. This was Bob's idea: his dad had been on the bridge not long before the tragic May 9, 1980 collapse of the old Skyway Bridge, he's always been curious about it. The structure itself is quite remarkable, visible from miles away and very high above Tampa Bayway. As we crossed it, we realized we could make Anna Maria Island a destination and turnaround point. Once we got off the bridge, the drive to Anna Maria Island was longer than we had anticipated and it seemed very crowded and overbuilt. These photos are more beautiful than any I took.

On the return trip, we stopped at Skyway Fishing Pier State Park -- the longest fishing pier in the world. We saw a number of unfamiliar fish, and everyone seemed to be enjoying a good day of fishing, including the pelicans and a dolphin at the end of the pier. Although we were right on the water, I didn't need my jacket.

Spectacular views of the bridge!

Fort Desoto

Our day started with a trip to Mobil for gas and air. The tires all needed air and Bob thinks they should be aligned. Settled for gas and air. My job was taking off and replacing the gas caps, something I have never done before. I actually think I might be able to put air in a tire now, without overfilling. Made it to 60 without having to do this, so this skill is not likely to be needed anytime soon.

Yesterday, the GPS led us astray, or, rather, nowhere, when we were looking for a Walmart for me to buy some sweatpants, and, once again, the unavailability of quickie divorces turned out to be a good thing. Words were exchanged. Shouted, really. I reluctantly plugged in the GPS when we set out for Fort Desoto, after taking the precaution of writing Google map directions by hand.

Turns out the ride was easy. We spent a couple of hours watching people fishing, kids playing in the water, families picnicking. Unfortunately, Fort Desoto itself was being restored so we did not visit this landmark from the Spanish American War. It looked like an earth house or bunker from our observation point in the parking lot. I was not altogether regretful, since I've visited a few too many forts in the last couple of decades, and there is a sameness about them, regardless of the era.

The beach was rated "the best in America" in 2009. It was lovely, but not on my personal top 10 list, especially since the tantalizing protected area for migrating birds was filled with gulls and other year-round species.

We had lunch in the Pass a Grille neighborhood we'd driven through just after sunset yesterday evening. Sea Critters Cafe served the best clam chowder and fish & chips we've ever enjoyed. A passing dolphin completed a perfect lunch hour.

Picked up deli treats for a sunset dinner on the deck.

Just Water, Please

We've visited so many lovely destinations and stayed at wonderful hotels, but for me it all comes down to water access and suitability for swimming. Today's Top Ten:

• Waterfront in Temiscaming, Quebec, where my siblings and I spent our childhood summers
• New River Beach near St. John, Brunswick
• Quarry in St. Mary's, Ontario
• Crosslake, Minnesota, swimming in the middle of that beautiful lake
• Lake Vemilion, Minnesota, frigid but refreshing
• Ocean at Cocoa Beach, Florida
• Hotel Bonaventure pool, Montreal
• Hilton Istanbul pool, Istanbul
• Highland Pool, St. Paul
• ... and now, St. Pete Beach

I need only very simple shelter but I love a good beach or pool, preferably with few swimmers. Tradewinds Resort has five pools. I've settled on the large family one and the adult pool that is fairly empty even at the end of the day on Sunday. In the morning I have either pool to myself, even though sunbathers stake out their deck chairs by 8 a.m. when I arrive for my swim. I haven't yet been in the Gulf of Mexico, except to walk in the surf the day we arrived.

This afternoon I'll take a dip in the salt water and then finish off with a swim in the adult pool. It really doesn't get any better than this. I would welcome another Ryan or Mitchell Hennessey to share the water fun!

Tragedy in Japan

It's hard to write about this fun vacation when so many people are suffering after the earthquake and tsunami in Japan. Once again, the Red Cross is there.

Random Musings while Neighboring Sheep Pray

I always enjoy getting a take on the crowd in an unfamiliar church. In this case, St. John Vianney (St. Jean Vianney, patron saint of parish priests, the famous Curé d'Ars), a couple of miles north of our resort. We went to 10 o'clock mass, later than the intended 8:30, so that we could have coffee and take a look at the excellent St. Petersburg Times before heading out.

I don't know much about architecture but the church has a "mission style" look and feel. A lot of Italian names in the bulletin. Parishioners look prosperous and "older", though I saw a number of young families. Weekly collection exceeds $25,000, comparable to our own parish in St. Paul. I didn't get the impression of much economic or cultural diversity -- no Spanish mass, few (if any) people of color. I couldn't really tell the visitors from the regular attendees; the differentiating factor seemed to be cash vs. envelope at offering time.

After mass, we went to breakfast at the Waffle House, a stop Bob likes to make once a year or so. By noon, the sun was getting hot; time for beachwear and an afternoon by the pool

Florida Aquarium

Today's day trip was to the Florida Aquarium. It is rated one of the top 10 in the country,  but I couldn't help comparing it to the Monterey Aquarium. That beautiful space is integrated into Monterey Bay and it feels very open and, well, part of the bay itself. Bob commented that the glass could be a little cleaner and he was right. In fact, we did see a glass cleaning device in one of the aquariums, moving methodically up and down from some height above the exhibit.

I liked the sea turtles and stingrays best. The alligator was lethargic, as alligators tend to be until some interesting prey catches their fancy. Human divers who paid a premium to swim with SCUBA gear seemed to be enjoying exploration of a big tank, diving all the way to the bottom and swimming among the fish. The energetic otters are a crowd favorite, but they're hard to follow because they're so fast and into doing their own thing, whatever that is, not playing to or for the crowd.

We arrived at the aquarium just in time for the noon dolphin watch boat ride, branded as an "ecotour" as is the custom with such excursions. We did indeed see dolphins, and they were much more crowd aware than the lively otters. They even moved from one side of the boat to the other, as if to please all their fans. It really was fun to watch them.

We used the GPS (Bob's birthday gift from the boys last June). What a great device! The major challenge was getting Bob to have faith in the directions! Now I know why he doesn't use the GPS  himself: I think he argues with the disembodied GPS voice the way he does with me. In the end, he followed my directions verbatim and we arrived safely, in both directions.

Sun, Wind, Cold and ... Relaxation!

We had a roll and coffee at the hotel lobby bar for breakfast, walked on the beach and planned our day. A drive north led us to Clearwater Beach and Sand Key Park, where many surfers were waiting for "the wave", and there were lots of them today.

The beach was full of crushed shells, and I was happy to be wearing my tennis shoes and double jackets. The Vikings windbreaker was great with the white fleecy shirt underneath. I was shocked by the overbuilding on the shores of Tampa Bay and the Gulf. Buildings are wedged together so tightly that the beautiful bare beaches are obscured and scarred by structures of several eras, in a variety of architectural styles.

We split a grouper sandwich at the famous Frenchy's, where we picked up a shirt for Chris, who recommended this restaurant.

I went for a swim toward the end of the afternoon. Most adults were in the pool for only a few minutes but the water was so much warmer than the air that I was reluctant to get out. Bob joined me (as an observer, not a swimmer) and I dried off on one of the deck lounge chairs -- furniture I usually avoid, fearing that I will make a spectacle of myself getting out of the chair. Not so today: the Tradewinds chairs are well designed and solid, and very comfortable.

We watched the spectacularly beautiful sunset from the deck and decided dinner at Crabby Bills's was in order, as did the dozens of people who were waiting for a table when we arrived. Rather than wait an hour, we made the mistake of settling for Silas Dent's, which might have been good if our server had been a little more with the program. He forgot what we had ordered, didn't bring us bread until we asked, and then served us cold food. I was amazed to read great reviews online; maybe we were just unlucky.

The wind has died down and we're looking forward to sun and warmer temps tomorrow. I feel very pleased with the day and almost relaxed: enjoyed the little logistics and navigation problems that make the day interesting and fun.

No Wait for Cabanas

I usually pack far too many clothes, with attire suitable for every occasion and all seasons. On occasion, I decide that reform is in order and am ruthless with a targeted packing job. Not surprisingly, I have odds and ends I've picked up all over -- a hairbrush from Lisbon, a favorite water resistant fleece jacket bought on an unremittingly cold and rainy day in  St. John's.


I packed a light suitcase in about 10 minutes on Wednesday evening: sweatpants, jeans and a sweatshirt were among the rejections. Yesterday, I wore my little Minnesota Vikings windbreaker (perfectly adequate in San Francisco in November) and am now sitting in our room in my light long-sleeved cotton shirt, picked up at over the noon hour at Target a few years ago when I underdressed on a cold spring day.


The system that suspended play at Doral Cadillac Golf Championship yesterday gave us cold and windy weather yesterday. We had a light supper at Bermudas, an onsite restaurant and I almost expected to see my breath when we walked through the hotel grounds after our meal. Bob wanted to stop and listen to the music from a bench outside the Sharktooth Tavern, but I was freezing and couldn't stay long.

I may be passing on my morning swim (48 degrees just before 8 AM). There is no mad rush to the cabanas on the beach, and I think we'll drive up the coast and explore the Clearwater area. The sun is shining and though the warm-up starts today, I may be picking up a sweatshirt on our junket -- none of the usual worries about an overstuffed suitcase.

Landed!

Eagles have limped into a landing. I didn't sleep much last night, maybe 2 hours, and have been up since shortly after 4 AM. Fortunately, Chris drove us to the airport. He conned Bob into handing over the keys to the new Chevy Traverse, after declaring that the hockey gear in the back of his truck would have to be moved if he used his own vehicle. Bob doesn't have too much stamina at that time of day, so he backed off on his plan to hide the keys and we all slipped over the icy sidewalk to load ourselves and our bags in the Traverse.

MSP (Terminal 1, fka "Lindbergh") was very busy with spring breakers and pale Minnesotans eager to escape the cold and mountains of snow. After de-icing, we flew over fog and then clouds, arriving in Tampa after a thunderstorm. Our bags were circulating when we arrived at Belt 6, and we were in our rental car within 20 minutes. Turns out our rate ($243 for 10 days) was as great as I had thought, and the attendant tried to sell us a larger vehicle for an additional $10/day. I think we should have sprung for it, as it seems a little tight for Bob, but I had no persuasive powers left. We were soon on our way to St. Pete Beach in a Pontiac Vibe.

No trouble finding the hotel, thanks to Google maps and the fact that all roads seem to lead to the beach. The Tradewinds Resort property is very pleasant and beautifully manicured. It does have something of the feel of an adult summer camp, reminiscent of Kellerman's in Dirty Dancing, with lots of activities for adults, teenagers and kids. Our room wasn't ready yet, so we had a drink in the lobby, a gold and green tropical expanse populated with vacationers from northern climes, all looking exhausted from long journeys from points north, east and west. A little later in the day, I think the area may look a little like pre-revolutionary Cuba, with women wearing make-up a little too bright and thickly plastered on. The drinks were much better than the Bellini I splurged on at Harry's Bar in Venice; I wonder if Hemingway was ever here?

We checked into our room after a walk on the beach and a trip to Norman's Liquor Store. It's not warm here -- maybe 68 degrees and windy, but our room is beautiful and the view is lovely. The sun has finally come out, and people are walking on the beach far below our 6th floor room. A kind of moat, called a "canal", with little Venetian style bridges to cross over, surrounds the property. The promised swans are not in evidence, but groups of kids are navigating the water in paddleboats,  moving among the koi.

Because of the weather, the pools are quite empty. Time for a swim!

New Destination: St Pete Beach

We've been thinking about a visit to the Gulf Coast for a few years now, but have either chosen a non-Florida destination or the familiar and much loved Cocoa Beach. This year, something different!

We're headed to Tampa on Thursday for 9 days on St Pete Beach.